Mongolia may be one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world, but the capital Ulaanbaatar is home to almost half of the entire population. UB, as it is often referred to, is an intriguing mix of modern high rises and ancient Buddhist monasteries. While I arrived by train, most visitors nowadays fly into UB and it is well worth spending a few days exploring the sprawling city and the rural areas on the outskirts before venturing further on your Mongolian adventure.

Enjoy an evening of traditional Mongolian song and dance at various venues across the city. The throat singing, or khoomei, was a genuine highlight - totally bizarre but surprisingly melodic! Originating in the west of the country, this art form takes years to master and is fascinating to watch.

About 30 miles from Ulaanbaatar, don’t miss the fabulous views from atop the gigantic Chinggis Khaan (Genghis Khan) complex. Its centrepiece is a spectacular 40 metre stainless steel statue commemorating Genghis Khan, the revered founder of the Mongol Empire. There’s also an interesting museum at the base that’s well worth a visit.

Close by, I even had the opportunity to fly a golden eagle - an unforgettable experience and one I highly recommend. After all, when in Mongolia…

Mongolian cashmere is renowned as being the best in the world, thanks to the country’s harsh winters, which cause goats to grow exceptionally fine and dense undercoats. There are a number of factory shops in UB where you can learn about the process of turning these prized fibres into yarn and watch as skilled workers knit the softest sweaters, scarves and socks.

The quality is superb, the warmth unmatched, and the price a fraction of what you’d typically pay back home.

Nothing quite prepares you for the sheer beauty and vastness of the Mongolian landscape as you leave the city behind. Around a quarter of the population still lives a nomadic lifestyle, moving with their herds several times a year. We spent an afternoon with a delightful local family - a rare and memorable glimpse into a way of life shaped by nature and little changed over centuries. 

It was a wonderful opportunity to learn more about their traditions, admire their goats, and share a meal together (boiled sheep’s head, anyone?!).

We also spent a night camping out in a ger, the circular wood and fabric tents traditionally used by nomadic herdsmen. After a spot of star gazing, we had a wonderful night’s sleep, with the unexpected underfloor heating (and a number of pre-slumber shots of rather potent Mongolian vodka) keeping us cosy.

Emerging from the tent the following morning to find ourselves surrounded by a herd of Mongolian horses as the sun rose over the steppes, was the icing on the cake on what was a truly magical experience.

To replicate some of my experiences in Mongolia, Intrepid's Trans-Mongolian Railway Adventure is a great option or take a look at our Mongolia Holidays pages for further inspiration.