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VIA Rail Canada Fam Trip

The TF Travel Diaries: Eastern Canada by Rail

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By George Salthouse


Trailfinders are the travel experts for a reason. We regularly send our team on research trips to get first-hand experience of the holidays we provide (it’s tough work but someone has to do it!).

In this series TF staff recount their recent research trip experiences, sharing the highlights and explaining what makes a holiday here just so incredible.

This edition sees George Salthouse, a Travel Consultant in our Cheltenham Travel Centre, discuss the team’s recent trip to Canada.

Flights

Airline & Route: Air Canada London Heathrow - Toronto / Montreal - London Heathrow on Boeing 777s


Flight Experience: I was in economy on the outbound and was thoroughly impressed. Although I'm more of a music guy than into films, the entertainment selection was enormous with big screens on the back of every seat. I found Economy more than comfortable and plenty spacious as well. I was in Premium Economy on the inbound flight, which had even more space and real cutlery and crockery, it definitely felt like an upgraded service. Both flights landed well ahead of schedule, so I was thoroughly impressed with Air Canada.


Airport Experience: Security was a breeze, we slipped through customs without any issues at both ends. All the Air Canada desks were well organised and friendly. Montréal airport felt busier than Heathrow but not difficult to navigate at all, with very well organised self service baggage check in and swift security.


Lounge Experience: It was a very straight-forward walk to the lounge from security at Heathrow, well-signposted. It couldn’t have been more than 20 minutes from arriving at Terminal 2 before we were relaxing in the lounge, which was spacious, peaceful and very comfortable. A great selection of food and drink for breakfast, no frills, but there was plenty of space for our large group of nine to spread out. The lounge in Montréal was much busier than the Heathrow lounge, being a hub airport for Air Canada, but featured one of the biggest buffet’s I personally have ever encountered in a lounge with self-serve beer taps.


Heathrow Air Canada lounge

Toronto

Our hotel was excellently located with all the major sights of Toronto, easily walkable. After a quick freshen up we headed to St Lawrence Markets for some oysters and other delights, including my first sample of Canadian Wine. I had no idea how big the wine industry was in Canada with plenty of homegrown options. We spent the evening exploring the waterfront and watched local heroes, the Toronto Maple Leafs (not Leaves!), snatch an exciting 2-1 victory over the New York Rangers in extra time at the Scotiabank Arena.


Our first full day in Canada took us to the incredible Niagara Falls. It really is staggering to witness the sheer volume of cascading water and its immense power up close from the boat. Be prepared - you absolutely do get wet!


We concluded our time in Toronto the following day with a trip up the CN Tower. Afterwards, we then relaxed in our VIA rail business class cabin all the way to Ottawa - well worth the additional cost for the upgrade. Having to spend a good seven hours on a train made it all but essential to have food and drink included, as well as more space in your chairs.


Interesting Fact: Until Burj Khalifa was finished, the CN Tower was the tallest freestanding structure in the world.


Highlight: Niagara Falls being the highlight goes without saying, so I would also say watching the Ice Hockey. The sport is a religion in Canada, so it really felt like we were getting involved in the authentic Canadian culture. It was a really exciting way to kick off the trip.


Top tip: The traffic in Toronto did get pretty heavy so I would definitely suggest walking where possible and try not to rely on overground public transport if you can avoid it. Most of the main attractions are fairly walkable within the city centre.


Where we stayed: 3★+ Chelsea Hotel


Hotel Tip: Pop up to the pool and spa areas for incredible views over downtown Toronto.


Toronto Leafs Game at the Scotiabank Arena

Ottawa

After checking in to our next hotel, we enjoyed an orientation walk of the city and pizza dinner in the ByWard Market district.


I had no expectations of Ottawa and it was a pleasant surprise - a lovely riverfront city with beautiful markets and plenty of bars and restaurants. The 5★ Fairmont Chateau Laurier is a real landmark, and we were blessed with the warmest October day on record.


Interesting Fact: You might be surprised to know that Ottawa is Canada’s capital city (not Toronto or Vancouver!).


Highlight: My personal favourite area was definitely the Byward Market district, it's easy to explore on foot and soak up the atmosphere with buskers and street performers. The area also has plenty of food options if you want to grab some poutine, and really comes to life at night.


Top Tip: Canada operates day tours and excursions seasonally, so your travel consultant can double check that they will be running if you're looking to go in shoulder season or winter.


Where We Stayed: 4★ Lord Elgin Hotel


Hotel Tip: Our rooms at the Elgin even had a rack for ice skates, since when the Rideau Canal freezes over during the winter the locals can ice skate over it to work.


Ottowa scenery

Québec City

I think the group almost unanimously agreed that Québec City was our favourite stop on the trip. The Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it was utterly charming. We enjoyed a fascinating tour of both the 5★ Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac and then the city itself. Full of boutique shops, bars, and restaurants, it's an easy place to just wander about and get lost in the backstreets.


Interesting Fact: The Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac proudly claims it is 'the most photographed hotel in the world' due to its stunning, castle-like architecture.


Highlight: We jumped in a taxi to see the Montmorency Falls and had the brilliant idea to see who could get the closest to the spray of the plunge pool - that woke us up!


Top Tip: If you're doing the city walking tour there's the option to include a tour of the 5* Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac, which I would definitely recommend if you're someone who's into your history and architecture - it's a very impressive hotel, so it is special to have behind-the-scenes access.


Where We Stayed: 4★ Hotel Manoir Victoria


Hotel Tip: This is a lovely hotel, although worth noting, it is situated at the top of a hill. The nature of Québec City is that it is quite hilly in general, so definitely something to be prepared for.


Quebec walking tour

Montréal

Our final stop brought us to Montréal. After a long day travelling in economy, I would say it is definitely worth considering the upgrade to business class for the train journeys. We passed the Circuit Gilles Villeneuve on the way into the city before getting our bearings with a wander of the Old Town.


It was super interesting to visit the 5★ Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth, which is a far more modern affair than the one in Québec City - Fairmont really make an effort to give each hotel its own unique style and character. We were well looked after with drinks and canapés and even got to see John Lennon and Yoko Ono's honeymoon suite.


Interesting Fact: John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s honeymoon suite is found in the Fairmont the Queen Elizabeth – suite 1742, made famous by their “bed-in for peace”.


Highlight: For me, the old part of the city definitely had the most character. We visited The Coldroom speakeasy which was very cool and with the rest of the city being more modern, it was a lovely break from the hustle and bustle of downtown Montreal to see something more quirky.


Top Tip: If you're more into culture and history, I would say it's definitely better to be based near the waterfront. However, if you're into modern cityscapes and a classic city experience, downtown will suit you fine with shopping outlets and modern architecture. Keep an eye out for artwork, the companies behind every new construction in Montreal have to donate 10% of it's budget to funding public art! A lovely initiative.


Where We Stayed: 4★ Renaissance Montreal Downtown


Hotel Tip: Time Out market in the Eaton Centre, a short walk away, is great for sampling top local restaurants at a cheaper price.

Montreal view from Fairmont gold lounge

Final Thoughts

As someone who is usually more interested in wildlife and nature than cities, this fam was a real eye opener to me as it's not the kind of trip I would consider booking for my own holiday, but absolutely loved it. Each city felt uniquely different with its own character and style and all the Canadians we met were so friendly and welcoming. The pace felt just right too – we had just enough time to experience what each city had to offer without being too rushed. Perhaps with the exception of Niagara Falls, it's not necessarily the sort of trip that ticks off a lot of key landmarks or sights, but if you are a fan of city stays and train travel, they will get a lot out of an itinerary like this. There's lots of interesting things to do in this region and especially at the time of year we went, the fall colours are beautiful. We had an absolute blast and I will definitely be returning to Canada.

For more inspiration take a look at our Eastern Canada Holidays pages, or to replicate the holiday yourself, take a look at our Capital Experience by Rail suggested itinerary.


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Written by George Salthouse

George is a Travel Consultant in our Chelmsford Travel Centre.

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