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By Dom Cornfield
We arrived in Paro on a flight from Delhi, following an adventurous descent into one of the world’s most challenging airports! On arrival we were warmly greeted by our local Trailfinders representative, who without delay drove us to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital.
Later we met more of our local hosts, who immediately welcomed us into the rhythm of Bhutanese life. We were fortunate enough to witness a local cultural festival in full swing with vibrant costumes, traditional music, and an infectious sense of joy all on display.
The following morning after a hearty breakfast, our city tour began. We took in the grand Tashichho Dzong (dzong means ‘fortress monastery’), the imposing Buddha Dordenma watching over the valley, and the quirky Postal Museum. One of the museum's highlights is the opportunity to print personalised stamps, an unexpected but fun souvenir for clients!
Hotel visits in Thimphu gave us a chance to see the variety of accommodation available. Bhutanese hotels are often small, charming, and deeply integrated with local design and traditions. The emphasis on sustainability and simplicity over luxury was consistent and refreshing.
Top Fact: Bhutan’s national sport is archery. We were able to see this in action and even gave it a try ourselves. Watching locals hit impossibly small targets from great distances was impressive - our own attempts, less so!
Our next stop was Punakha, set in a warmer, more fertile valley. To get there we travelled east over the Dochula Pass, known for its 108 shrines and spectacular mountain views. Our own crossing was sadly shrouded in thick clouds - eerily beautiful but not quite the panorama we had hoped for, however the misty conditions only added to the mystical feeling of being in the Himalayas.
Enroute, we also visited the Temple of Fertility, Chimi Lhakhang, famous for its quirky phallic murals and blessings for couples hoping to conceive. This temple, both spiritual and humorous, offered a fascinating insight into Bhutan’s rich tapestry of beliefs. That evening we settled into the 5★ COMO Uma Punakha, an exquisite hillside retreat overlooking the Mo Chhu, or Mother River. The first luxury hotel brand to enter Bhutan and still one of the best, the service was exceptional and rooms are beautifully appointed.
The following day a visit to the magnificent Punakha Dzong coincided with yet another festival, giving us the chance to see locals dressed in their finest traditional wear - gho for men, kira for women. It was a living, breathing display of Bhutanese culture. Lunch was the day’s highlight: riverside dining beside the Mo Chhu, surrounded by nature whilst enjoying warm Bhutanese hospitality. I also tried the infamous Druk 11000 lager with an ABV of 8%, it certainly had a kick!
From Punakha, we ventured further into the mountains for the day to the Phobjikha Valley, where we were lucky enough to spot yaks, monkeys, and birds. The valley felt remote and serene, with an almost untouched atmosphere. At Gangtey Monastery, we found a spiritual calm, watching monks go about their daily routines with the dramatic backdrop of rolling hills.
Top Tip: The seasonal set menu at COMO Uma Punakha was exceptional. It uses fresh local ingredients and was the best meals of our entire trip, not to be missed!
Top Fact: The Phobjikha Valley is known for its scenic beauty and rare, black-necked cranes, which migrate to the valley in the winter months (end of October until mid February).
Our journey came full circle with a return to Paro, where we prepared for our final challenge: the Tiger’s Nest Monastery. The hike is as demanding as it is iconic, climbing through pine forests and past waterfalls before arriving at the monastery itself, which clings dramatically to a cliff face. The views are incredible, worth every step.
Top Tip: Paro Takstang (Tiger's Nest) is an absolute must see and well worth the effort. For those less able to undertake the full hike, there is an option to walk up to a cafeteria found midway. This will take around 1-1.5 hours and offers breathtaking views of the monastery from its terrace.
That evening, we enjoyed some local rice wine and a traditional hot stone bath - a Bhutanese wellness ritual where hot stones heat the water and infuse it with minerals. After the Tiger’s Nest hike, it was exactly what we needed to unwind.
We spent the night at the 3★ Tashi Namgay Resort. This hotel offered another unique experience, front-row balcony views of planes taking off and landing at one of the world’s most daring airports! Another unique experience to add to the list.
Top Tip: Bhutan has characteristically changeable weather, which we experienced for ourselves when we were caught in a hailstorm. The valley turned white for a moment before the skies cleared, leaving fresh mountain air and even a rainbow behind. Make sure to be prepared for all eventualities!
Reflecting on our time in Bhutan, it is clear this is a country unlike any other. Deeply spiritual, fiercely protective of its culture, and staggeringly beautiful. Bhutan left a lasting impression on both of us. It was a journey filled with discovery, hospitality, and moments of true stillness - a privilege to experience and one we will not soon forget.
For more inspiration, take a look at our Bhutan Holidays pages.
Written by Dom Cornfield
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